posted by Unknown at 2:45 PM
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Monday, March 27, 2006
We arrived at the river at 8.30am, as advised, to pick some good seats on the boat before everyone came over from Thailand. The boats are basic wooden long - boats with roofs and there appeared to be only one boat leaving.
People started arriving with their backpacks and some even with bicycles. The luggage went on the back of the boat and the bikes went on top. There were rice bags under seats and various locals carrying their wares.
We picked the front seats (good for photos) we thought but soon came to realise that each seat was meant for two people. Well they must have been designed for Thai bums not western ones! Bit of a squash for 8 hours! Well, we are in our 40’s and the majority of the passengers were backpackers in their 20’s, but very interesting to talk to.
Most were in the middle of taking a six to twelve month holiday and told us about their travels in Australia and the Far East. We were doing Thailand and Laos in 3 weeks. We were very envious.
We did meet another couple that we spent a few days with on the boat and through Laos. He was 72 and she was 56. They had done a lot of successful travelling using the ‘Lonely Planet Guide’ and were on a four week holiday.
The trip along the Mekong River was lovely with interesting scenery, water buffalo and the occasional local fishermen. Before it gets dark the boat stops at a town called Pak Ben. You get off the boat via a makeshift wooden plank and have to climb a very sharp incline up a set of concrete sandy steps built into the cliff edge! We were the only ones with ‘Hard’ luggage and began to wish we had bought backpacks, although everyone seemed to struggle. However, there are some young boys who will offer to take you and your luggage to their guest house.
We had already picked out ‘The Boomey Guest House’ from our book so we headed on our way with our luggage in tow. We found the accommodation very easily and again paid around £5 for the room with air conditioning, mossy guards at windows and hot water. I had read many adverse reports about this little town on the river, where people had been bitten badly with mossies. Not only were we not bitten but we hardly saw a mossie so I do not know what time of year they are around. (This was good news coz we decided not to take Malaria tablets.) We showered and had dinner and a few drinks while overlooking the Mekong River, then early to bed.
We were back on the boat by 9.30am and continued on our way to Luang Prabang. Again the boat was overcrowded but what an experience! We arrived at Luang Prabang around 5pm. We climbed up the banks where there were drivers waiting to take you to a Guest House. We choose Sok Dee Guest House where we had a room with air-con, mossy guards, television and hot water again for $15 per night. (£9) You have to take your shoes off before entering the Guest House as a sign of respect but in the evening the lads take the motorbikes into the small reception area
Luang Prabang is a very pretty French Colonial style town with wooden beamed buildings and nothing over two stories. They were awarded a National Heritage award in 2002 and have been given monies to repair buildings and improve pavements. The little side streets had new brick paviour and the roads were tarmac.
Plenty of Temples to see and the Monks are very friendly and keen to improve their English. Taking Photos was not a problem. We loved this place! So beautiful with lots to see and a low-key night market selling mostly fabrics.
We had three days here and did the walk as laid out in the ‘Lonley Planet’ guide so managed to see the whole town.
Half way through the walk where the Nam Beng river meets the Mekong river a beach type bar (made of Bamboo and wood) has been set up with tables, beach brollies and rush sun-bathing mats. It was so peaceful there that we wished we had more time. The Riverside restaurants and the ones on the main street have a variety of food on offer all at very cheap prices.
Plenty of shops offering trips and we did the half day one to the Waterfalls and local village. I would recommend anyone to stay here for at least 4 days to one week if time allows. We booked a VIP coach for the next day to Vietianne (the Capital) an 8 hr journey, cost about £12.00 with a lunch stop included, aircon & toilet. We could have travelled on Public Coach for a lot less but no air-con, all windows open and very crowded.
This was a spectacular journey. Very mountainous and many times we were above the clouds. We passed many villages perched on the mountains edge. An armed guard with achine gun was included to deter any would be bandits on route 13. I am really glad we close this method of transport and didn’t choose to fly, we would have missed some fantastic scenery.
We arrived in Vietianne around 6pm, found a Guest house very easily which was very central. There is a very good cheap day market, some lovely temples and Monuments. We also did the ‘Mekong to Monument’ walk to make sure we did not miss anything. across the border over. 2 days here and then off to ‘The Friendship Bridge’ to the train station on the Thai side, night train back to Bangkok all for around £12.00 per person, - bargain!
We thought that the Country of Laos was really beautiful as are the People. It is know as the Land of a Million Elephants and many travellers know it as “one of the last quiet countries on earth” -
A truly great adventure, one that we will remember for the rest of our days.
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